If you were up and about in Sydney early on the morning of this year's Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, you would have seen the biggest queen in the city hoving into view and docking at Circular Quay.

Who would have thought the ultra-formal Cunard line would have joined the celebrations in such a spectacular manner?

Drag diva Vanity Faire was perched atop a glittering, 2.2-metre-high stiletto shoe on the top deck of Queen Elizabeth, while a colourful, 26-metre Happy Mardi Gras cape flew behind her, raising cheers and smiles, despite the grey weather.

This is the first season all three Cunard liners have visited Australia at the same time.

Queen Elizabeth and Queen Mary 2 are now heading for their home port of Southampton via Asia, India, Dubai and the Suez Canal. Queen Victoria, which also visited Sydney this month, is taking the route via San Francisco, the Panama Canal and the Azores.

The grand dames of the oceans attract attention wherever they sail. Their next royal rendezvous is on May 9 in Southampton, to celebrate Queen Mary 2's 10th birthday, a year-long party that began when she left Southampton in January amid a fireworks display.

My recent cruise from Fremantle to Melbourne on the ship's second circumnavigation of Australia gave me the opportunity to experience the Cunard style first hand. It is certainly an impressive vessel. Although it might not be the largest passenger ship in the world - that title, which it held when it was launched in 2004, was taken over by Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas - it is still the fastest.

Cunard was established 175 years ago and its three modern ocean liners are designed to evoke the traditions of the bygone days of cruising elegance.

Although the ships are equipped with state-of-the-art engines, technology and contemporary facilities, such as a huge Canyon Ranch Spa for passengers, they still offer enormous public spaces, niche spots to which to escape, and grand, sweeping staircases.

The theatre and planetarium shows fill quickly and the Cunard Insights program hosts top-notch speakers from all walks of life.

The famous British newspaper editor, journalist, author and television presenter Sir Max Hastings was on our cruise and he gave an excellent talk about Sir Winston Churchill's life and career.

Afternoon tea is served at 3.30pm in the Queens Room, the biggest ballroom at sea. Waiters wearing white gloves pour proper tea made from tea leaves and serve freshly baked scones, sandwiches, and delicious little cakes and pastries. A string quartet or similar classical group plays in the background.

Dining is a two-class affair. If you are a passenger in a Grill suite, you have exclusive access to the Queens and Princess Grill restaurants. The two-tier, 1347-seat Britannia Restaurant is open to all, and has two sittings, 6pm and 8.30pm. Todd English is the a-la-carte, extra-charge option on the ship, and it is definitely worth a visit for dinner, but be warned - the servings are very large, so keep your appetite primed.

Everyone dresses for dinner in the Todd English, Grill and Britannia restaurants. If it is a formal night, men wear black suits or tuxedos, and women don cocktail or long frocks and bring out the bling. On informal nights, men can wear jackets and trousers (tie optional) and women can wear "stylish separates" or that useful cocktail dress again.

If dressing up is not your thing, you can have dinner in the Kings Court buffet on Deck 7. If there is one place that needs a refresh, it is the buffet. It is big and confusing to navigate and the food does not look or smell appealing. I found lunch at the Golden Lion pub more to my taste - casual, quick and hot, with plenty of draught beers on tap.

Next year is another big one for Cunard fans Down Under. Queen Mary 2 will make its second circumnavigation of New Zealand, leaving Sydney on March 12, 2015.

Queen Elizabeth's Sydney-to-Southampton cruise, departing on March 3, 2015, includes a visit to the waters off Gallipoli for the 100th-anniversary commemoration of Anzac Day on April 24. Queen Victoria and Queen Mary 2 meet for the first time in Sydney Harbour for a royal rendezvous in March.

Sally Macmillan writes Traveller on Sunday's weekly Cruise Director column. She travelled as a guest of Cunard.

AHOY!

Cunard's Carpathia was the only ship to rescue passengers from the Titanic in 1912.

TRIP NOTES

CRUISING THERE

Queen Elizabeth's Southampton to Sydney 51-night voyage departs on January 10, 2015, and arrives in Sydney on March 2; fares start from $11,369 for a balcony cabin. Queen Mary 2's 13-night round-trip voyage around New Zealand leaves Sydney on March 12, 2015; fares start from $4049 a person twin share for a balcony cabin. Queen Victoria's 15-day Fort Lauderdale to Los Angeles cruise leaves on February 2, 2015, and arrives in LA on February 17; fares start from $4129 a person for a balcony cabin. Phone 13 24 41.

MORE INFORMATION

cunardline.com.au.